Nose, the Olfactory Magazine – #05 – Natural and Synthetics

The fifth issue of Nez continues its olfactory exploration, and takes us even further beyond borders, clichés and received ideas about our sense of smell. At the start, the Icons of Olfaction: from Kentaro Kawaguchi who perfumes video games, to Michaël Edwards, the founder of the largest database of perfumes in the world Fragrances of the World, via André Holley, neurobiologist specializing in smell and taste, disappeared in 2017. Le Nez des architectes probes the olfactory universe of this profession, between the smells linked to the profession, and the singular relationship that everyone has with their sense of smell. In our Odorama notebook, you will discover how insects smell, the Calone saga, a molecule with a marine smell and the olfactory secrets of cardamom. We invite you to the green, to dissect all the smells encountered during a weekend in the countryside. Throughout the Correspondances, read an extract from the novel Musk by British author Percy Kemp, explore the olfactory universe of writer Joris-Karl Huyssmans and that of Filipino artist Goldie Poblador. Discover the fragrant secrets of a painting by Jan Davidz de Heem and sniff the scents of Camdem Market in London with perfumer Lyn Harris, in our olfactory portfolio. Finally, explore the intimate links between perfumes and spirits in a joint interview between Marlène Staiger (H.Theoria Liqueurs) and Nicolas Julhès (La Distillerie de Paris). In the magazine section, head to Calabria in Italy for a report on the cultivation of bergamot, a citrus fruit essential to colognes, and which notably gave its aroma to Earl Gray tea. Perfumer Michel Almairac, author of Chloé, Bottega Veneta and Fahrenheit de Dior, among others, and founder of the niche brand Parle-moi de parfum, shares his vision of perfumery and his profession in a long interview. An olfactory flashback transports you to the Belle Époque, while the imaginary boutique advises illustrious personalities of this decade. The main issue focuses on the delicate and ambiguous question of the place of natural and synthetic in perfumes, whose controversial and vague dimension is mainly the result of a lack of knowledge of the general public on the subject. Between well-kept manufacturing secrets and opportunistic communications, technological advances, beliefs, received ideas and amalgams… it is often difficult to form an informed and fair opinion. Nez will guide you by offering answers to questions as diverse as: What exactly are perfumes made of? How did chemical synthesis appear in perfumery? Are synthetic compounds dangerous? How have natural ingredients evolved over time and how are they used by brands today? What are the parallels with other industries such as the food industry? The Cahier Parfums helps to better understand an industry in full transformation, through an investigation into the artificial intelligence used in the service of perfume creation, the family tree of Tabac blond de Caron, the first leathery perfume to have been talked about , and a portrait of the Parfum d'empire brand founded by perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. A Cahier critique sifts through all the (many) launches, a selection of 30 perfumes, as well as a handful of scented products for the body and the home. Finally, a diary lists the olfactory events not to be missed: books, exhibitions or other events (increasingly numerous) related to smell or perfume.